The morning was ours for shopping, strolling and seeing sites in Chefchaoen and Fashion Design major Brittnie Brown was not going to leave “the blue city” until she bought herself a blue painting. After much contemplation and considering what must have been over 100 paintings she made a decision and got herself a good price after negotiating with the vendor. Nearby, Gabby and Sophia had to take a break for tea on this morning where blue was abundant even a clear blue sky.
What is life like in the rural areas of Morocco? What came next was a rare opportunity for us to find out when we visited Faouzi and Nadia’s farm in a village outside Chefchaoen. A farm that included a five-room house he built himself out of stone, wood and clay. Life on the farm is hard work as was deeply evident when we had the opportunity to sit in the couple’s living room for a conversation in which students asked questions that were informed by the anthropology course taught by Dr. Kelly Kirby who was also there.
“How many children do you have, Nadia, and where were they born?” inquired a couple of students. In a translated response we learned that she had three girls and one boy. Three were born at home and one in a public hospital where all expenses were covered. “What is the hardest thing about farming?” asked another. To which Faouzi answered in Darija (an Arabic dialect), “making money.”
Students study a great deal about motherhood, childbirth, patriarchal societies and family life in the course so naturally there were several questions concerning these topics. We learned that the marriage between Faouzi and Nadia was arranged and he added that “marriage is about respect of the whole institution.” What does a typical day of family life look like for this family? It begins with breakfast for the children who are then sent to school. Then, after his breakfast Faouzi tends to the animals, gardening, harvesting olives and on occasion will go to Chefchaouen to do construction where he’ll make $8 for an eight-hour day of work.
Yes, life on the farm is hard but Faouzi says that “the two things that really matter in life are good health and not to be greedy – be thankful for what you have.”
Later, when Brittnie reflected on the visit she said: “One thing I really liked about this family is that they stick together. They eat together and spend time together unlike in America where most family members do their own thing.”
Allen, our tour coordinator, has been bringing groups to visit Faouzi and Nadia’s farm for twelve years and said that he has never had one so engaged as ours, asking such well-conceived and thoughtful questions.
Our afternoon on the farm was indeed a fine example of anthropological fieldwork on the part of Moore’s students.
What followed was a four drive to Fez. More on this city of 9600 streets in the medina tomorrow. Stay tuned…
