Today was a day for traveling to cities not yet explored but not before visiting the studio of the flamboyant and highly talented fashion designer Mahmoud Benslimane, “createur de vetements, modernes et tradtionnels.” His rotunda-shaped venue which is also his home has five rooms, each of which have been named for elements that inspire him and his work. We entered the foyer and after he had us all completely engaged with his introduction he proceeded to invite us to open the doors and discover what was inside each of the rooms. We started on the left and with anticipation began to do so in a clockwise fashion. First the “water” room, his bedroom; second the “air” room, where garments are created; next the “fire” room, Mahmoud’s kitchen; the “earth” room, cleverly enough is bathroom; and last the “love” room for which he exclaimed, “It’s me, it’s love and all the elements of me!”
It was difficult leaving Mahmoud’s delightfully contagious spirited domain but indeed we had to in order to stay on schedule for another day jam-packed with adventures. So we loaded on the bus and off we went to Asilah, a small city on the Atlantic Coast. The destination here was a fortress built by the Portuguese in 1472 that is now home to artists and a multitude of murals.
Before entering, our guide Mohammed introduced us to our Asilah guide Bashir, whose name translates to “the one who comes with good news.” The good news for us was seeing the unique works and meeting some of the artists who created them. One woman, a tattoo artist could not resist grabbing K Hanna’s wrist on which she quickly and meticulously created an amazing henna and beaded design. “A woman grabbed my hand and put it there,” Khannah said. “I liked it and gave her five dollars.”
The students could not click their cameras fast enough to capture the beauty of this wonderful site. We could not leave it before seeing traditional Moroccan bread being baked in a centuries-old stone oven and enjoying two warm loaves right out of that oven.
After a lunch of couscous – vegetarian, chicken or beef – we had the great pleasure of visiting the Church of San Bartoleme and hear from Sister Clotilde to find out what life as a Catholic nun in a predominantly Muslim country was like. Her touching story followed a trajectory from when she left the church at the age of 18 because of her unhappiness there and for “17 years stayed far away.” At the age of 35, after a friend told her she was becoming a nun, Sister Clotilde began reading the Book of the Mass and what followed later she said was that “God called me into my future family as a nun.”
While Sister was speaking, I noticed that Curatorial Studies major Chandler Israel was taking notes. Upon asking her what affected her the most about what was said, Chandler said she was moved by the fact that “Sister Clotilde was allowed to do what she was able to do at the age of 18 without her parents turning against her.”
The sisters of San Bartoleme also run a women’s center at the church where 168 Muslim women, ages 16 to 80, were taking classes in literacy and sewing towards building skills that will help them in getting employment. The nuns are not permitted to try and convert the students, they provide this service as part of their outreach. Illustration major Kristin Houtenville was so impressed by this. “It’s really good that these two groups of women are able to put their religious differences aside and come together. That the sisters can practice their Catholic faith and also provide these services to help the Muslim women.”
Back on the bus we went for a two-hour ride across the winding roads of the Rif Mountains heading to Chefchaouen, the “blue city.” We arrived safe and hungry. More on this beautiful city tomorrow.
